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The sea trees of Trondheim
Part two
The sun set several hours ago. We pad along the pier, fully equipped for diving.
After today's earlier meeting with the corals, we are planning to snoop about in
the shallows with our cameras.
Erling and Frank Emil are a few metres ahead of me as we slide down the narrow
crevice in the steep cliff. Our lights creep over the rock, where sea cucumbers
strive to stand firm in the current.
Just below me at about 16m I see a long, narrow fish sliding into Erling's
torchbeam. The next few minutes are chaos.
We have found another stray from the deep, a creature we had been curious to see
for years - the ratfish, or sea mouse.
We had seen it before only in illustrations. Its Latin name, Chimaera monstrosa,
originates from Greek mythology and refers to a fire-breathing goat with a
snake's body and a lion's head. Pictures show a creature with big, golden eyes
and a whip-like tail.
The others catch sight of the ratfish at the same time as me, but it is not
alone - there are five of these "monsters"in the cleft.
In their efforts to take pictures while stopping themselves descending, the
divers' fins stir up a lot of mud.
Their lights keep flashing, and I stay above and out of the way until things
calm down. The eyes of the ratfish are very sensitive, and the flashes obviously
make them uneasy.
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Pink Lophelia pertusa corals |

Gorgonia fan |
Two of them head towards me. Their heads resemble those of dogs, and their big
eyes sparkle with green brilliance in the light of my torch.
One comes close and "snuffs" at my camera before turning back down and
disappearing. moving with incredible grace.
Suddenly they are all gone, leaving in the crevice three dazed divers amid
clouds of mud.
Later in the week we would meet these extraordinary fish several more times.
The sky is bright, and the sea is almost calm. I am sweating as I arrange the
equipment, and the excitement in the boat is almost tangible. Have we found it?
Soon we will have an answer.
I tumble into the water and slide down the shotline. It is low tide, and there
is little current. I need to check that there really is a reef down here. If I
cannot find anything near the mooring, I will play out my line and make a
circular search out from the shotline.
The computer indicates that I am near the bottom. Expectantly I play my light
down into the darkness.
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Gorgonia fan in Skarnsundet |

Gorgonia fan |
A big, white object appears as I land on the dark sand. I identify it as a
sponge. As the light sweeps up the slope, I can just make out something else big
and white on the edge of the cone. I swim somewhat nervously into the unknown.
I will never forget that swim. Large fan sponges and trees of ricegrain corals (Primnoa
resedaeformis) surround me, and Norway haddock (Sebastes viviparus) hang around
in the water. I feel as if I am in some weird, bewitched forest.
These quaint creatures have never before been disturbed by humans. Why should
such beauty be hidden under masses of cold, dark water?
It really is the Lophelia reef (Lophelia pertusa), and not one but three. They
are not big; Lophelia reefs of up to 500,000sq m have been found in Norwegian
waters, usually on the Continental shelf between 200 and 400m. This one is at
55m. "Our reefs" are no bigger than a VW van, but that doesn't matter. We have
found what we were looking for.
Carefully I touch the fragile corals. They are quite hard, like stone corals in
warm waters, and the reef reminds me of a thick thornbush. It bears a striking
resemblance to shallow tropical coral reefs.
I have hardly time to acknowledge a few shrimps and a couple of troll lobsters
before I have to head back to the shotline. On my way back I pick up a small,
loose piece of live coral from the bottom. Perhaps it was torn off by a
fisherman's jig.
The deco-stops give me time to absorb the dive, which ranks among the most
wonderful experiences of my diving career. I want to go straight back down, but
there is plenty of time.
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Sponge and Gorgonia fan on Lophelia corals |

Rabbit-fish |
FIVE days later we leave the reef for the last time. Nothing has changed. The
Norway haddock is still hanging in the water, and the coral fans wave goodbye.
The six films we have taken on the reef are likely to include pictures of
several species never before photographed by divers.
It has been a successful expedition. After only three dives, all our objectives
had been achieved - to see the sea tree, ratfish and coral reef.
Diving in Skarnsundet can be very challenging and is not recommended for
beginners. We constantly had to fight unpredictable currents, sometimes going in
opposite directions along the wall on the same dive. In some places currents
also went straight up or down in a wedge-like formation.
The area off Skarnsundet is biologically very interesting and less difficult to
dive, but it is still possible to see sea bushes in the relatively shallow and
still waters. There are few diveable wrecks in this area, but for anyone
interested in marine fauna it is unique. Divers are likely to visit in great
numbers in coming years.
Travel by ferry or fly from the UK to Oslo or Bergen, hire a car for the 650km
drive to Skarnsundet, or fly on to Vaernes, 80km from the site. Accommodation is
available at Vangshylla Rorbuer at the western end of Skarnsundet, in new
cottages that sleep up to six and cost £300 a week. Call Svein Gusta, tel. 00 47
74155641. Boats can be rented locally, air can be obtained from the local fire
station or Steinkjer Diving Club 25km away. Viz is best in winter but varies
from 0-40m. The water is cold, between 4-7°C at depth, possibly warmer at the
surface in summer. More details from Rudolf Svensen on 00 47 51861329.
Back to part one
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